Ice Climbing at Mountainfest

Debby and I, spent the weekend in the Adirondack Mountains at Mountainfest, www.mountaineer.com  The weather was "perfect", cold and icy.  We did get some snow, but it came after the day's activities were drawing to a close, so it just added to the atmosphere without complicating the climbing activities.  I signed up for two classes.  The first was Alpine Mountaineering, held on Saturday.  The second was Beginning/Intermediate Snow and Ice Climbing.  This festival happens every year on Martin Luther King Weekend.  It is sponsored by The Mountaineer in Keene Valley.  It is just the right dose of mountaineering for us "arm chair" mountaineers who are trying to move up to be real mountaineers.  If anyone has an interest, checkout the website and attend next time.  The people are wonderful, the guides and the climbing community in the area are unique, nurturing, helpful and instructive.

Saturday's Alpine Mountaineering Class was taught by Chad Kennedy, a guide from Adirondack Rock and River, www.rockandriver.com  There were just three other climbers in my group.  We had a great day learning how to travel on different terrain in our crampons, how to place anchors using ice screws and other techniques, and different ways to protect ourselves and partners using rope handling and belaying methods appropriate to the circumstances.  Chad is a super knowledgable climber with a great personality for teaching.  My fellow climbers, Mike, Andrew, Matthew, and I had a great day and found some time to explore a formation called "Buster" near the"Pitchoff" parking lots outside of Keene.

We climbed this pitch using a single mountaineering ax with our crampons

Climbing with just the single Ice Ax at first seemed difficult, but Chad hooked up a top rope anchor and we all found that it was great practice for improving our footwork on the ice.

Chad Kennedy setting up the climb

Mike Fiorentino makes it to the top of "Buster", his first ice climb

At the close of our day it began to snow heavily.  It was a beautiful site from our perch to see a soft clean layer of snow fall.  And on the way down the hill I added some comic relief by crossing the front points of my crampons and doing a somersault.  Every opportunity is a learning experience.  I won't do that again.

Each night of mountainfest has a slide show or film presentation by professional mountaineers.  Debby joined me for those activities, including a spaghetti dinner sponsored by the Keene Valley Fire Department.  Those activities and our evenings in front of the fire at the Keene Valley Lodge were great opportunities to make new friends, share stories, and absorb the thrill of the adventures that the shows described.

Keene Valley Lodge

Matthew Meadows, Steve Bowers, Debby Duffy

Pictured above, after the spaghetti dinner we spent time with Steve in his workshop talking and having a drink.  Steve is a furniture maker in Keene Valley.  Matthew is a fellow climber from my Apline Mountaineering Class and a grad student at Trent University in Ontario.

Sunday morning began before dawn gearing up and having an early breakfast before meeting my classmates and teachers for Beginning/Intermediate Snow and Ice Climbing.  The class was taught by an outstanding climber, Emilie Drinkwater and Lori who assisted her.  Lori is a buyer for the Mountaineer and is a great source of advice on buying the right gear for the right job.

(From the left, Emilie Drinkwater, Jesse, Dave, Me, Dawn (below me), Anna, Dave Heather, Katrina, Scott)

We spent the entire day climbing several pitches on Otis Mountain.  Emilie and Lori watched us and gave tips to improve our technique.  Anna and Heather were particularly outstanding climbers.

I think I am getting the "hang" of this

Heather demonstrates some impressive ice climbing skills

I'm almost "there"

The day ended at the Guide's House at Adirondack Rock and River.  I love this sport!  it is such a high and the people are great.  I learned a great deal, but I have a lot of practicing to do.  I can't wait to do it again.