Panorama Point, Nebraska

On August 14, 2013, After a restful night and a delicious breakfast at the Holiday Inn Express in Goodland, Kansas, I began a leisurely drive toward Kimball, Nebraska the nearest city, on my map, to Panorama Point, the high point of Nebraska.  The most interesting fact of note...it was difficult to keep track of time as my drive regularly skirted in and out of the Mountain and Central time zones. A road trip alone introduces solitude and offers plenty of time to contemplate such things or to simply take in the passing landscape. It was a restful, mobile meditation with Wyoming on my westward side, Nebraska on my eastward.  Again, it was a trip through the high plains.  I saw few people over the many hours of my drive.  Some might think it a bit wacky to seek the high point in states like Kansas and Nebraska, but I find it enlightening because these are places that I would otherwise have little reason to see.  There are lessons to be had by just the motion and presence of travel in such large and sparsely populated places.  I found it peaceful and it brought to mind where my food comes from, how very large America is, and how different it would be to live with so few people around me each day.

Again, there were wild sunflowers for miles!

I reached Kimball just after noon and was happy to find a welcome center with free coffee and lots of information about the area, including clear directions about how to find Panorama Point.  They proved very helpful as it was again a challenge to find my way on the back roads.  They informed me that there are Buffalo on the land surrounding Panorama Point, that I should not get out of my car if they were near the high point marker.  Apparently Buffalo can be pretty aggressive.  I imagine I would be too if mankind had all but exterminated my species.

This high point is also on private land,
guess these folks do not want to miss the opportunity to cash in on it

The road in

This is it, The high point of Nebraska

The Buffalo were not near the high point, they were happily grazing in the meadow below.

Once again, conclusive proof of my presence on the high point of Nebraska

Panorama Point is near the point where Nebraska and Wyoming meet on the northern border of Colorado.  There is No picnic table! So, after a few pictures and a good look around I was back in the car and headed toward Custer, South Dakota to position myself for a "run" up Harney, the high point of South Dakota, the next day.

Mt Sunflower, Kansas: Unexpected Beauty

First, I have to acknowledge the date.  Twelve years ago, I was a survivor of the attacks on the World Trade Center.  Eighty-five of my colleagues and co-workers did not survive the attacks.  Twelve years later this day still has an emotional power so personal and unpredictable that I do not know what to expect.  So, today I send my prayers and thoughts to those who lost family and friends on that day and in the aftermath of the attacks and recovery efforts.  Blogging about my high points quest seems like a perfect activity today since it occupies my mind in a positive and engrossing pursuit, and because it was this life threatening experience that motivated me to retire early and pursue a dream to be in the mountains.

I find it difficult to blog in real time, as I travel and reach the high points. So, now that I have finished a western/mid-western swig it's time to catch up.

I left Boulder, CO by car on August 13, 2013 headed to the high points of Kansas, Nebraska, South Dakota and North Dakota.  This was a spontaneous "plan" triggered by my old college friend Ted Bieber who noted how quickly I could reach each of these States because there is approximately a five hour drive time between each of them.  I must diverge for a moment to note that I was in Colorado to hike and climb with Ted and another good friend, Paul Puhr, our host and resident of Boulder, CO.  I had joined these two after a spectacular backpacking trip in the Okanogan-Wenatchee National Forest to the Enchantments.  My partners there were David West, Fritz Hartley, and Dave McGraw.  Because my blog is about high points, I will not go into detail about the trips, I must however share a few photos to show the beauty.  They were spectacular trips, the lessons learned and increased fitness achieved during these journeys made it feasible to summit Granite Peak on the last day of August.

This is NOT Kansas, it's the Aasgard Pass, "gateway" to the Enchantments...
2,200 feet in one mile, with a pack, ouch!

The Aasgard Pass beside the "Dragon's Tail" from Colchuck Lake

Dave McGraw on Stuart Lake, before our approach hike to the Enchantments

Paul Puhr and Ted Bieber below Pacific Peak scree field

From the summit of Pacific Peak

Pacific Peak, note the line on the right side of the peak between the notch, do we have a story to share!

Okay, now about Kansas.....The original "plan" was to "bag" Kansas and Nebraska on the same day, but the country is larger and more beguiling than I had anticipated.  I was stunned by the wild sunflowers and the long trains, the farm fields and cattle, the wind mills and rustic barns.  I had to stop to take pictures every few minutes.

The hardest part of the Kansas high point, Mt Sunflower, was finding it and then finding my way back to town.  It's less than half a mile from the border of Colorado, in Wallace County Kansas.  Access is via a dirt road on to private property owned by Mike and Rae Marie Jones.  They encourage visitors and there is a picnic table on the site.  I reached it at about 4:00 pm on August 13, 2013, signed the summit register and sat down at the table for a picnic of cheese, salami and peach.  There was no one anywhere to be seen.  The sun was intense and I was happy that the Jones had built an enclosure with a roof to shelter from the sun.

There was no hike involved, but the drive was wonderful....Again, I will let the pictures speak for themselves.  One note, I got lost on the country roads after leaving and had to turn around several times to avoid low water crossings that were not possible in my tiny rental car.  I was happily lost, as it provided an unexpected tour of the back roads and beauty of rural Kansas at sunset.  I reached a Holiday Inn Express just at dark and abandoned the idea of bagging Kansas and Nebraska in the same day.

The area surrounding Mt Sunflower is a suitable introduction to the vast area of the high plains.  The elevation increases gradually from eastern to western Kansas, rising 3,300 feet from the low point of the State to it's high point at Mt Sunflower.

Proof of my presence on Mt Sunflower

Michigan's Mt Arvon: A Family Highpoint

Michigan 's highpoint at 1979 feet was not a physical challenge for me, but it was special for several reasons.  First, I grew up in Michigan. It's where my brother, my nieces and nephews, their families, and my best friend Jeff still live. So, it was the perfect place to combine a celebration of Steve and Lynn's 40th wedding anniversary in Charlevoix, a visit to Jeff in Traverse City and a journey to the "summit" of Mt Arvon. 

After flying into Detroit Metro just in time for the City of Detroit to declare bankruptcy, we spent the night in Troy with Steve and Lynn. Early the next morning we began the drive to Charlevoix, arriving for check in at the Weathervane Hotel at lunchtime. After a quick walk on the main street of Charlevoix we had lunch. By the end of the day, we were 21 Duffys, Wrights, and Taylors ready for a good time together. It had been nearly three years since I had my "entire" family together, I was missing my sons Zach and Chris, but it was wonderful to just be with my Michigan family. 

From that point the week slowly unfolded, with lots of beach time, catching up on one another's lives, laughing, floating on beautiful Lake Michigan and Lake Charlevoix, having a lovely Anniversary Dinner for Steve and Lynn, running each morning with Sarah and Jo, sharing a beer with Ben and Dan, Steve, Micah, and my brother. The evenings usually ended with a picnic together and fishing on the Piers. Living in New York City, so far from them, it was nice to feel the love and warmth of my family.  As the week ended, I felt a warm glow of peace and love wash over me as we watched another beautiful Lake Michigan sunset, laughed together with my arm around Debby, while we sat on the pier listening to Ben read his event summarizing poem. 

The next morning, we began our journey to L'Anse Michigan, the nearest sizable city to Mt Arvon. Debby and I had read little about the walk "up" Mt Arvon so we were not sure what to expect. Our drive took us north over the Mackinac Bridge into the UP (Upper Peninsula). Michigan is big! You never notice how big until you attempt to drive nearly the length of the entire lower peninsula and much of the width of it's UP. So, after nearly five hours of driving, arriving in Munising, home of Picture Rocks National Seashore we were ready for a stretch, some information from a park ranger and lunch. Finally, at around 3:00 pm we arrived in L'Anse at the Baraga County tourist office, where Nicole gave us the "beta" on the final approach to Mt Arvon. A winding logging road took us to within 200 feet of the top, as it turned out. There wasn't much of a hike or a view, but we were greeted by a nice picnic area, a summit marker and register and we had dodged the predicted thunder showers up to that point.  

The forest was beautiful and there were swarms of butterflies!! At 4:36 pm we signed the summit register as we swatted away mosquitoes and stable flies, took some pictures and headed back to the hotel we had reserved in Munising.  As it turned out the return trip was the adventure.  The radio engaged the emergency broadcast system and warned of winds up to 80 miles per hour, hail the size of quarters and pouring rain.  We drove and watched the sky with anticipation as giant thunderhead clouds developed and rain came down. We persevered  in our drive back to Munising, but at about 7:30 pm, when the radio warned us that we were driving into the severe thunderstorm, we took shelter in a nice local restaurant 45 minutes west of Munising to have dinner and wait for it to pass. When we did arrive at the hotel, the check in clerk had an excited look as she gleefully described her view as the storm rolled off of Lake Michigan right at them and the saw two large waterspouts while the lighting lite the sky. 

Tired and satisfied we retired to bed.  Waking the next morning for breakfast we plotted the days activities, determined to se some of the beauty of Picture Rocks and reach Jeff's house in Traverse City at a decent hour. We set a limit, a drop dead hit the road time of 11:00 am, which we nearly kept! It gave us time to traverse the scenic drive and jump out of the car for three short "hikes" to notable Picture Rock Landmarks, The Castle, Minor Falls and The Slide.  Once again chased away by a hoared of stable flies we leaped into the car and raced for Traverse City. One stop for food and gas and five more hours of driving I was hugging my best friend Jeff Tibbetts and his wife Keena.  We had a great visit rangling little grand children, playing golf, watching golf, eating turtle sundaes and other things, hiking up a beautiful sand dune to view the sunset, catching up with each other and celebrating Phil Mickelson's victory in The Open Championship! Keena and Jeff were the best! 

As usual! Debby and I were contemplating further adventures as we headed back to Detroit to view a bankrupt Detroit one last time before flying back to NYC. 

But, we settled on a visit to Gallagher Farms to collect as large a volume of cherry salsa as possible, and a visit to East Lansing so Debby could see my Alma Mater, Michigan State.  It was a great vacation and a notable high point because it was home for me in every sense of the word. Steve and Lynn welcomed us at their house in Troy at the end of the day for a final nights sleep before our flight back to New York. 

Colorful Colorado, Mt Elbert 14,440 Feet

This trip to Colorado was outstanding and it marked a different, more mature approach to my mountaineering trips.  Thanks to our crew Greg Frux, Matt Powell, Matt Burd, and David Reitz, all experienced mountaineers, I learned new tricks, acclimatized in a systematic way and tackled more mountains in a short period of time than I had before.  In total, I reached the summit of 11 peaks over 10,000 feet between June 22 and July 1, 2013.

This was a particularly sweet victory since I had attempted Mt. Elbert with my friend Jim Freddo last fall and had to abort because of foul weather.

Jim Freddo with Nicholas, his son

The point on Elbert just short of it's ridge that Jim and I reached in September 2012 before turning around

This trip was undertaken to support Greg Frux as he opened an exhibit of his Shawangunks etchings and mountain paintings at the American Mountaineering Center's  library and museum.  The plans for which mountains to climb were discussed after we concluded our activities in Golden, Colorado and switched houses to a larger place in Dillion, CO.  Greg's exhibit was quite exciting and a big success.  It will hang in the museum for the summer of 2013

Greg Frux 

The area surrounding Golden was beautiful and inviting, nice people, tasty food, great day hikes and the Sherpa House right across the street from our rental house. I took some time there, with Greg and Janet Morgan, as well as on my own to walk and take in the beauty of the North and South Tabletop Mountain Areas.

Greg, Janet and I hiked a top of North Table Top Mountain

Our group began the transition to the big mountains in Eldorado Canyon, where we found some spectacular rock climbing.  We just spent the day playing on the rock.

Following, our day in Eldorado Canyon, our final team member, Matt Powell arrived.  The next morning we departed for Dillion, but first stopped to bushwack our way up Mt Trelease 12,477.

Then a "rest day" up to Mt Shiktau 13,234 from the Loveland Pass.

Then we tackled Quandary Peak, where our party split up.  Greg and I climbed the East Ridge.  Powell, Burd and David climbed the West Ridge and ended up rescuing a group of young hikers with their leaders:  From Matt Powells Trip Report:

The group split into two parties, with Greg and Mark attempting the Class 1 East Ridge route and Matt B, David and I setting off to climb the Class 3 West Ridge.  We agreed that the team reaching the summit first would wait for the remaining party, and then all of us would descend the East Ridge together.

Matt B, David and I were greeted by some exceedingly friendly (and apparently hungry) mountain goats at the West Ridge trailhead, and as can be seen from the photos we were concerned that we would return to a car with four hubs but no tires.

The three of us headed up into a gorgeous alpine valley and we noticed a group of seven or so folks well ahead of us.  As we reached the end of the valley, we were presented with two possible routes to the crest of the West Ridge.  The other party had taken the left hand side of the headwall and we decided the right hand side looked more feasible.

About halfway up the headwall the two routes converged and we met the other party.  It was a group of five teenagers being led by two twenty-something counselors.  It was immediately obvious that this team was under-equipped and did not have the skills to be on this route.  Unfortunately we had already reached a point where it would be difficult (if not dangerous) for them to descend the route they had just climbed, so the three of us decided to guide them for the remainder of the ascent.

We were at a point where a steep snowfield led to the ridge, and the snow was still too firm to kick steps, so it was necessary for me to chop steps using my ice axe.  It was exhausting work at over 13,000 feet but everyone made it safely to the ridge crest.

According to several guide book sources, the ridge is never more difficult than class 3, but there were a couple of places where snow conditions forced us onto more difficult terrain.  I was quite concerned at one point where the only safe passage was a low-fifth-class descent to a saddle between two rock towers.  Fortunately, the counselors had only permitted teenagers with prior rock climbing experience to join the group for this route, and we were able to guide them safely through this section.

We finally made it to the summit, where Greg and Mark had been waiting for nearly 2 ½ hours.   Our views included Mt. Trelease and Mt. Sniktau, as well as Mt. Lincoln and Mt. Bross, two more fourteeners that were on our itinerary for Wednesday.

We took a real rest day on June 25th followed the next by a climb of Mt Democrat 14,154, and then a traverse of the ridge resulting in summits on Mt Cameron 14,238, Mt Lincoln 14,285 and Mt. Bross 14,172. This was one of the most beautiful days of our trip! 

David Reitz and me on the summit of Mt. Democrat

Looking back at Democrat on traverse between Lincoln and Bross

Mt Democrat

After summiting Trelease, Sniktau, Quandary, Democrat, Cameron, Lincoln and Bross we were all feeling fit and acclimated.  For our last objective as a team we chose Grays and Torreys Peaks.  Again we chose two routes splitting our team again with one team doing the traditional route, Greg and I.  The other team did the Kelso Ridge.  Greg and I got off route and ended up summiting Torreys first, seconds before the other team came up Torreys Kelso Ridge to the top.  So we proceeded together to finish the climb on Grays Peak.

Summit Torreys Peak

Grays on left Torreys right

Torreys Peak

Grays Peak looking up on the descent

The valley at the end/beginning of the trail to Grays and Torreys

Thus ended the adventures of our full team with our successful summits of Grays 14,270 and Torreys 14,267.  We celebrated, Matt Burg and David Reitz departed.  The next day Greg, Matt Powell and I bagged another 10,000 foot peak outside of Frisco, Royal Mountain 10,502 feet and had our last celebratory meal together.  Greg and I then departed for Leadville scouting out our routes for the next day.  For me it was the high point of Colorado and the second highest peak in the contiguous 48 states, Mt Elbert 14,440.  For Greg it was Mosquito Peak and two others in that range.

Base camp in Leadville

We woke at 4;15 am at our "base camp" in the Delaware Hotel.  Greg was on his way before 5:30 am. I reached my trailhead at just past 6:15 am and was on my way shortly after.  Greg's climb was a success, finishing by 4:00 pm he added three new 10,000+ peaks to his list, surpassing 80 I believe.  I also successfully summited Mt. Elbert, reaching the top just after 12:00 pm and returning to the car before 5:00 pm.  I took the South Trail from the lower parking area, navigating nearly 12 miles and 4,900 vertical feet to the top.  It was five hours round trip from the spot on the ridge where Jim Freddo and I had been turned around by a storm last September.  This time I reached the top on a solo effort.  Finding three men from Arkansas on the summit who took my picture, exchanged well wishes and a prayer.  I coud not help thinking about my mother who was born and raised in Fort Smith Arkansas and my father who met and married my mother there on his way to Korea after a brief stop at Camp Chaffee.  I was a little closer to heaven up there, maybe they could "see me"?

Colorado Columbine

Summit of Mt Elbert, 14,440