Thursday, March 12, 2015

Gannett Peak, Wyoming (13,804') July 14-18. 2014

The Wind River Range of Wyoming is spectacular! It's massive, it's filled with fast running water, wildlife and unfortunately sometimes teeming with mosquitos. The hike in to Gannett Peak is 16 miles from the closest trailhead and the mountain has some tricky technical sections that led me to hire a guide.  I chose Sam Magro who had been such a skilled guide on my successful trip to Granite Peak the previous summer.  These photos bear Sam's logo because he took them.  I am especially grateful for the photos since I lost most of them after my iPhone dropped out of my unzipped coat pocket on the Gooseneck Couloir.





Our hike to Gannett began in the town of Crowheart, Wyoming where we stopped to meet our Shoshone Tribal Guide from The Wind River Indian Reservation and pay for our permits to be on Tribal Land.  His role was just to drive us to and pick us up from the Cold Spring Trailhead.  While costly, this saves 16 miles of hiking round trip by crossing tribal land.  Even with this arrangement the hike would still be 32 miles round trip and the summit would require some glacier travel and climbing on snow.  Our party included Sam and his girlfriend Genevieve (our porter), and Woody Connette another client of Sam's that I had met in Bozeman a few days ago.  Woody and I travelled from Jackson Hole Wyoming where we spent two nights enjoying the view of the Tetons before meeting Sam for our drive to Crowheart. Woody had just finished a climb up Granite Peak guided by Sam less than a week before.

The first day was a six mile hike turning onto the Ink Wells Trail and crossing the Scenic Pass at about 11,000 feet. We were taking our time as we carried packs over 40 lbs.  A lightning storm threatened while we were still high on the Pass.  It provided just the motivation I needed to pick up the pace and get our tents set up before the rain began.  When we reached camp near Echo Lake Sam cooked.  I ate up quickly with my mosquito net hat on and went to bed.

The next day we hiked another 9 miles to settle along a river not far from the Dinwoody Glacier.  The hike was along verdant bogs, through a long beautiful canyon and involved several stream crossings.  Sam advised us to unbuckle our chest and waist belts when we crossed so we could quickly shed our pack if we fell into the fast running streams.  The weather again seemed iffy when we settled down for the night, but we set a 5:00 am wake up time.  When we woke we were ready to go.  We ate a hearty breakfast and shouldered our summit packs with headlamps lit.  The weather seemed to be holding off and the day dawned quickly.  It wasn't long before we reached a boulder field and then at the snowfield where we put our crampons on.  Traversing deep packed snow and staying away from giant lakes of snow melt we reached the base of the Gooseneck Couloir and began to kick steps.  The weather was still threatening so Sam set a 10:30 turnaround time and pushed our pace heading for the ridge above the Gooseneck Pinnacle.  This route requires about a 3000 foot gain from the beginning of the snowfields to the summit over about two miles.  I was struggling but feeling confident I would make it.  But, after climbing some time on the rocky ridge toward the summit ridge I suddenly had a spasm and cramped up tightly in both legs.  This had happened to me before, on the Franconia Ridge in New Hampshire.  I knew if I drank some electrolytes and ate something I'd recover and be able to summit, but the weather seemed to be closing in and Sam felt that a long pause was not possible or we would exceed our 10:30 turnaround time.  It took a few minutes for me to realize it would not be safe for me to proceed with the rest of the team.  The climb to the summit ridge involved another short steep snowfield with some significant exposure, cramping up there would not be good so I offered to sit it out on the rocky ridge high above the Gooseneck Pinnacle at about 13,300 feet and just short of reaching the summit ridge.  It was incredibly disappointing and this kind of failure always leads to some serious soul searching.  So I sat on my spectacular perch and watched my climbing partners as they plodded to the summit.  I tried to enjoy the ethereal beauty instead of beating myself up.  It was such spectacular scenery and I seldom had an hour to just sit on a ridge so high in the mountains.  I reached for the cell phone in my pocket.  It wasn't there?  It later became clear that I'd dropped it on our climb up the Couloir....Damn it was a disappointing morning.  As I waited for the team to summit and return the weather began to turn and some clouds began to drop in on us.  I was getting a little worried about what I would do if we had a white out and they couldn't find their way back to me, but as promise, I was not moving from my spot until they did.  Fortunately they weather held until they returned and we started down.  As it turned out Sam had made an excellent call.  Before we got down the mountain it had begun to snow on top and shortly after making camp the rain came down in buckets for several hours.  I was strong and well rested on the descent which was fortunate because I had to self arrest to stop the fall of one of my climbing partners on a critical section traversing back to the Gooseneck Couloir.

The final day of our trip dawned and was beautiful and sunny, we marched the full 16 miles back to the Cold Spring Trailhead and camped to meet up with our driver to take us out.























Summer Fun In Colorado (2014): Getting Ready For Some Big Mountains

View From South Arapaho Peak 

So far I have written very few posts that do not involve my highpointing goals.  I have decided to change that.  My Colorado summer with friends Paul Puhr and Ted Bieber was fun in it's own right, but it was also spectacular training for the three major highpoints I went to this past summer.  Paul was a tolerant and gracious host. I spent several weeks at his place.  I used the stays with him in Boulder to acclimatize and train while Paul was at work.  Bear Peak (8,461') was my favorite jaunt. I could walk from Paul's house an reach the top in about two and a half hours.  I climbed it four times during my stay with Paul.  It's elevation gain of just over 2700 vertical feet in a little over two and a half miles was a great training climb and being in Boulder meant I stayed above 5000 feet even when I was sleeping.  It was the perfect prelude to the other things I did in Colorado, Wyoming, Utah and Idaho during the summer.

Summit Bear Peak
Paul and I climbed Mt Audubon (13,229 feet) on July 3rd. By July 5th I was in Bozeman MT getting ready to climb Gannett Peak the high point of Wyoming (see the post after this).  While I waited for my partner on this climb Woody Connette and guide Sam Magro, I spent time visiting Yellowstone National Park and climbing Mt Washburn (10,243') to acclimatize some.  After the attempt on Gannett Peak I returned to Boulder to meet up with Paul again, and later Ted.  Paul and I spent several days at the Bouldering Gym with Dawn, Chris and Davian.  I had not bouldered before.  It was challenging but rewarding.  The progress I made after three or four days there was encouraging and exhausting.

View From Mt Audubon

Selfie on Audubon



When Ted arrived we first hiked Herman's Gulch in the Arapaho National Forest July 22nd.  It was a beautiful area and a great training hike (6.5 miles round trip and about 1800' of elevation gain).  It tops out at 11,987'. Three days later on July 25, 2014 we climbed Gray's Peak (14,270') together.  This was my second summit of Grays.  It is a tough climb with 3000 vertical feet to gain over about the 8.35 mile round trip, but the weather was clear at the top and we had great views from atop the Continental Divide.  Two days later we climbed Mt Arapaho (13,397') in the Indian Peaks.  Following Arapaho Paul, Ted and I climbed Mt Stuart (13,983) in the La Garita Wilderness, a subsection of the San Juan Mountains.  We also got very high up on Horseshoe Mountain and Redcloud Peak but were turned around by building thunder storms.  Not a bad stretch in Colorado with successful summits of five mountains.  I was in great shape to move on to successes in Utah and Idaho with my climbing partner Matt Powell!


Herman's Gulch


Summit Gray's Peak


View of Torrey's Peak
Climbing South Arapaho

Below the summit ridge to South Arapaho

view from Stewart Peak

Summit Stewart Peak

In the San Juan Mountains Near Redcloud Peak





Wednesday, March 11, 2015

Pennsylvania, Maryland and West Virginia: Highpoint Trifecta (May 10-12, 2014)

Climbing partner Greg Frux agreed to accompany me on my whirlwind weekend road trip to Mt Davis, PA, Backbone Mountain, MD and Spruce Knob, WV.  We departed NYC early on the morning of May 10th with the intention of reaching both Mt Davis and Backbone Mountain that day. When we reached the parking area for Mt Davis in Forbes State Forest it was raining.  We took a few minutes to boot up and put on our rain gear. I am not the consummate planner, Greg is, so this was the first chance he had to see my tendency to simply "wing it" on an easier high point.  Let's just say that I did know roughly where I was going, I had printouts of directions, but no detailed maps.  We found the top with a minor degree of backtracking and the rain stopped.  The highpoint of Pennsylvania is 3,213 above sea level atop a gentle slope on a simple short loop trail of less than 2 miles round trip.  There was a nice fire lookout tower so we climbed it to enjoy the view of the surrounding forest.  Mt Davis is the summit of the gentle 30 mile long slope of Negro Mountain in Somerset County near the Maryland border.












I think Greg found my willingness to let things happen and endure the consequence of mistakes baffling? and instructive.  It's my believe that the willingness to get a bit lost is part of the adventure as long as it's not dangerous.  This allows an element of serendipity. Serendipity makes things more fun.  Serendipity was in all it's glory as we resumed our trip blindly trusting my GPS to find Maryland's Backbone Mountain.  In doing so we ignored a simple sign late in the day and drove way past the trailhead.  We were tired, hungry and frustrated from a days long drive when we realized our mistake.  So we decided to eat at the Purple Fiddle and stay overnight in a lovely bed and breakfast near Blackwater Falls State Park in Davis, West Virginia.  A good mistake because it led to an interesting side track and some wonderful live bluegrass music


Should Have Just Folowed The Sign Guys!
The Purple Fiddle

The Bright Morning Inn Davis, WV



Refreshed and well fed, we spent the early morning viewing the Blackwater Falls and Greg sketched.

Blackwater Falls Davis, WV


Detail of Blackwater Falls' Location


Now On To Backbone Mountain (May 11)
Armed with a fresh reading of the directions and a determination to find and follow the sign we'd seen but failed to follow the evening before, we left Blackwater State Park.  We saw the roadside sign, and parked on the shoulder. Then we identified the blazes along a trail and finally the sign pictured below.  This trail was a bit steeper than Mt Davis.  In just over a mile we reached the top of my 25th state highpoint.  I celebrated with a dance to a Talking Heads song, "Where Have All The Flowers Gone" while Greg wrote in his journal at the picnic table.  We highpointers know how to relax!
Fun Fact: The top of Backbone Mountain, also named "Hoye Crest",  is very near the Maryland/West Virgina State Line.

This Marks The Border of MD/WV







View just below Hoye Crest

Spruce Knob, WV (May 11)
Spruce Knob is another highpoint that is simply a short walk from a parking lot, but it's in a beautiful area with a stunning views of the surrounding Allegheny Mountains.  At 4,863 feet, is also the highpoint of the Allegheny's.  Some beautiful and rugged red spruce trees cling to the earth on a lovely path, "The Whispering Spruce Trail", encircling the summit.  The area is part of the Monongahela National Forest and there are plenty of other trails and camping, but not in the immediate vicinity of the summit.  


View from trail circling Spruce Knob









Atop the lookout tower on Spruce Knob

It was getting close to sunset when we took the last of our pictures from the fire tower and headed down to find a campsite in the Seneca Shadows Campground.  We had "discovered" a beautiful feature named Seneca Rocks just before the last turn toward Spruce Knob.  It was so spectacular that we had to stop and have lunch while we gawked at it.  Greg was determined to climb Seneca Rocks from the moment he set eyes on it.  That that led us to a conversation with the nice folks at Seneca Mountain Guides, the rock climbing guide service across the street, about climbing it the next day.  I was feeling reluctant, but in the end I decided that I was in good hands with our guide and game to try the climb.  Just before we settled down for the evening to enjoy our lovely view of Seneca Rocks we made our final arrangements for a climb to the summit on the next morning before the long drive back to NYC.





Enjoying our meal of indian food with couscous Greg's specialty!

Seneca Rocks from our Seneca Shadows Camp

Seneca Rocks (May 12)
We met our guide, Stephen Hyndman, before 8:00 am.  Our route to the summit would be up "Old Man's" then Con's West Direct"  The real work of the day was up the "Stairmaster", a very steep and long, but well maintained rocky trail to the base of the climb.  I was feeling wasted by the time we reached the base, but after some water and a snack we geared up and Stephen led us up.  The climb was quite exposed at the top of Con's West Direct 5.4.  Ultimately we reached a very small pinnacle summit just as the rain began.  The approaching rain was a mixed blessing for me.  It was clear the climbing would only get more difficult and slippery, so I quit overthinking my moves and just went for the top cursing Greg as I did.  That technique was quite successful and I was elated to make the summit.

Greg and Stephen


Looking Up The First Pitch


"enjoying" my beautiful perch

That's Seneca Rocks Guides Down There On The Right Side Of The Road




One of the highlights of the climb was a free rappel of over 150 feet.  It was bit unnerving at the beginning but those feelings gave way to complete joy as I gently rotated and toke in the view of the valley, nearly 900 feet below me!  I have no good pictures of me because I was the first to rappel. But here are a couple of Greg.

On rappel from Seneca Rocks


A perfect weekend trifecta of highpoints topped off with a spectacular technical climb.  After a snack at the car and we were headed for New York City!